I had forgotten this one.
Waiting
in the wings was a smaller, but still recognizable name: Jonathan
Kaplan, one of Silicon Valley’s prodigal sons with a moonshot of a
second act. The founder of Pure Digital Technologies, a maker of cameras
and video recorders, Kaplan had first walked onto the All Things D
stage six years earlier to debut his Flip video camera. The Flip quickly
became a consumer favorite; four years post-debut, Kaplan sold his
company to Cisco for $590 million. But true to the entrepreneur
trajectory, Kaplan found the stability of a large company stultifying.
He wanted to change the world one more time.
His
new project, Kaplan teased, was “founded on the exact same fundamentals”
as the Flip. After a few warm-up questions from his interviewers, tech
journalists Kara Swisher and Walt Mossberg, Kaplan revealed the
cutting-edge creation he was poised to unleash: grilled cheese
sandwiches. Five different kinds of them, in fact. Featuring not only
cheddar, but also fontina, gruyere, and jalapeño jack.
The
new company was called The Melt. Its motto seemed cribbed from the
clumsy English slogans sometimes featured on Asian T-shirts: “Grilled
Cheese Happiness.” The sandwiches formed a minimalist menu, accompanied
only by soup. “It turns out when you put soup and grilled cheese
together, it’s really wonderful,” Kaplan informed his audience, as if
divulging a trade secret.
Swisher
and Mossberg openly smirked. “I feel like this is post-traumatic stress
from Cisco,” said Swisher. “I think he went home and looked at his
money,” Mossberg deadpanned.
Kaplan
was unfazed. Armed with a tech founder’s unflappable confidence and
ambitious growth targets, he announced plans to open 500 fast-casual
outlets within five years — all of them company-owned, not franchised.
Never mind that it had taken Chipotle three times as long to hit that
milestone using the same model. Kaplan felt confident in his
melted-cheese rocket ship.
The
Melt boasted an elite group of investors — including Sequoia Capital,
better known for its bets on Instagram and YouTube — and enough cash to
launch twenty restaurants, at a cost of $500,000 to $1 million apiece.
Kaplan had recruited some of the Bay Area’s top names, including
Michelin-starred chef Michael Mina and former Apple executive Ron
Johnson, the genius behind the tech giant’s retail stores.
With
the home appliance company Electrolux, he’d created a device that
delivered a restaurant-quality sandwich in 45 seconds flat—a “huge
breakthrough” in sandwich technology. (“Sandwich presses have been
around forever,” protested a skeptical Mossberg. “Not a sandwich press!”
Kaplan retorted. “This is two induction burners! Microwaves! Silpats!”)
Next month marks the six-year anniversary
of The Melt’s onstage debut. Far from 500 stores, it now runs a grand
total of 18 outlets. In the years since it first opened shop, The Melt
has grown in fits and starts — launching, then dismantling, a fleet of
food trucks, for example. Last September, Kaplan was replaced as CEO by
Ralph Bower, a restaurant industry executive with more than 25 years of
experience at companies like Domino’s Pizza and KFC.
Falling
short of its 500 restaurant goal hardly qualifies The Melt as a flop.
Shake Shack, the burger chain founded by longtime restaurateur Danny
Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group, took 13 years to reach one
hundred outlets and is now worth over $1 billion. But former employees
at The Melt, ranging from the top echelons of the company to in-store
crew members, tell a complicated story of a company that had to roll out
sweeping changes to its initial model after overestimating the
competitive advantage of its technology — which proved to be both a
source of strength and, at times, a liability.
The
Melt’s blundering trajectory is instructive, as Silicon Valley
wunderkinds seek to recast everyday objects with help from algorithms
and apps. Entrepreneurs frequently embark on these missions with vast
sums of money and a deep belief in technology’s power to solve all
problems — which is not always a formula for success in the
brick-and-mortar business of ordinary life: delivering groceries,
selling luggage, or making sandwiches.
“Don’t
let the fact that it’s just grilled cheese fool you,” said a former
senior leader at The Melt, speaking on condition of anonymity.....MUCH MORE